“I love Paris, but not the Paris that most travelers know. I like the little streets in Cité Trévise, near Gare du Nord, where tenacious, persistent men of labor dwell. And I like the little garret on Boulevard Voltaire where my friend, Claire, lives. I return to Paris again and again so I can argue with Jean Marie, who lives on rue Lecourbe, about this and that. Le Musée d’Orsay. I love it. He does not. The new pyramid entrance at Le Musée du Louvre. It descends a few stories down to a magnificent wonderland of marble and stone, mixing modernity and the ancient, original walls of the outer city. Breathtaking! Jean Marie shows disdain for it. His lips flutter and sputter and pulse like a motor boat as he dismisses the gigantic achievement.
“One must climb,” he says. “A grand entrance is always above. You enter and go up to be astonished, as the old entrance did. To go down is not right. You must believe me!” Jean Marie knows. He is certain. He speaks from his soul – from deeper than his soul. He pours me more wine and laughs at me.
“You are a real American!” He says it affectionately. It is not criticism. “So you can not understand!”
This is the Paris I love. I could sit quietly near Saint Sevérin for hours with big Louis. He speaks no English and I can say nothing in French. Yet, he laughs with me and slaps my back and breaks off another hunk of fromage for me. He lifts his glass of wine and points to a big piece of sky. He winks long and hard. I nod, to explain that I have that same chunk of sky at home, in my town, down at the end of my dusty farm road. And, that cloud! I point it out. I have seen that very cloud form over my farm before.
“Oui, he says, “j’ai compris.” He laughs and, with an open hand, slaps my leg firmly, just above my knee.
“Can you see Louis, the socialist, non-believer and the most generous man in the east of Paris in the Cathedral with all the behatted ladies and friends of the new Archbishop?.
No one understands un bon moment better than Louis! No one has such love as Claire!
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